For most male shavers, switching to a straight razor is similar to joining the big leagues.
It’s the next level in their journey through male vanity.
That, and because shaving was something you just had to get over with each day. But along the years, you got tired of getting nicks and cuts and from spending so much on frequent shopping trips for disposable cartridges that you decided to splurge one-time and bought a safety razor.
So for a time, safety razors, being what they are, made you safe and complacent. You got fewer nicks and cuts-and only because you still had to overcome a learning curve-but you always got a smooth and clean shave. But then again, like a seven-year itch, you feel the need for something new. Like wanting to turn pro.
And so you decide to get a straight razor.
Now, a straight razor, ain’t like a safety razor. It’s got a lot of parts, and straight razor purists always love to point out which part is essential to a perfect straight razor.
If you’re planning to get a straight razor, choosing what kind of blade point would probably be the least of your concerns. Rather, you would be looking out for the type and size of the blade, the quality of the handle and all the other obvious stuff. That’s because that’s what the gatekeepers in those online shaving forums keep yammering about.
But we’re here to tell you that even the least obvious parts have an important function in making sure that you get the best shaving experience. It’s the lesson that got Sauron overthrown in the first place; he thought the Hobbits were just tiny, insignificant creatures until one brave hobbit managed to stick his One Ring into the Fire.
The geometry of a razor blade is measured along these factors: the shape of the blade’s point, the type of grinding used for the blade which makes it hollow or flat, and its width. Among these three, it's whether the blade has a hollow grind (meaning the sides are concave) or a flat grind (the sides are straight) that gets a lot of mileage in discussion forums. But then that’s because the two other factors tend to be dismissed as just aesthetic modifications.
Granted, the different types of points do give their respective blades a distinctive style. More so, when you consider their names.
The six types of blade points are:
The Bespoke Unit website has an excellent illustration of these blade points. You can view it here.
This is maybe one instance where it isn’t hip to be square. The square point isn’t the most forgiving of blade points for rookies. It’s called a square point because it resembles the straight side of a square. Thus it has a very sharp point perpendicular to the razor’s sharp edge. It requires relative skill in handling this blade. Otherwise you will be frequently nicked by the blade.
Most vintage razors have a straight point blade, probably because this was how blades were manufactured in the olden days. If you’ve got heirloom razors in your shelf, we recommend you to keep them stored in the meantime until you have the skill and the chutzpah to wield it.
This is basically the anti-square point since Dutch points are semi-circular, without any straight edges. Of course, we can also call it as the round point, but here at Naked Armor, we like to have our razor labels touched with Old World nostalgia. So Dutch point, it is.
While not as accurate as a square point, a Dutch point blade will protect you from any nicks and cuts because of its rounded edge. It’s a great tool to use for easing oneself into a straight razor shaving experience. However, if you want to trim your goatee, this might not be the best blade for you since the point doesn’t get closer to the skin as the other types.
Using a Dutch point blade will easily guarantee you a smooth and clean shave, without the bumps or the cuts.
— Derek, Naked Armor Founder
A spike point is as dangerous as it sounds. It’s like the square point, except that the angle of the blade point is less than 90 degrees. This makes the blade look like its point is slanted backward. We think it’s the most dangerous of all blade points because, well, it’s a spike, and it will nick you if you’re not careful handling it.
But even dangerous objects are useful for something. Spiked blade points are best for shaving areas under the nose or under the earlobe since the smaller point can maneuver anywhere. The catch? You have to be really skilled. Otherwise you’ll be missing an earlobe, or worse, a nostril!
Ah, the French! We love them for their distinctive sense of style. Which is probably the reason why this point was named for them. This blade point is a fusion of both Dutch and Spike points; it has the sharp edge of a Spike to give some precision, but it is also rounded to protect the skin from being nicked. The fact that it also looks like the nose of Cyrano de Bergerac or Gerard Depardieu, if you’re a movie buff, is beside the point (pun intended).
The Sharpologist loves this blade point because its smaller diameter tip makes it easier to trim facial hair while keeping accidental nicks to the minimum.
This is a uniquely shaped blade point as it has a small round tip at the edge of the spine which then later curves into a concave end. It’s not as wicked looking as a Spike point but, hey, its all in the execution.
A Spanish point can bite off your strop if you’re not careful. That’s because its pronounced edges can be sharp enough to just about pounce on anything if one is not careful. Which also applies to one’s own mug. That being said, the Spanish point provides a certain degree of precision since it allows the user to see the spots they’re shaving, while its inward curve protects the skin from unnecessary nicks.
This point is popular among barbers because of the versatility of the design. It looks like an older brother of the Spanish point since it also has a rounded tip and a concave arch, except that it’s bigger.
The Sharpologist site says that there had been some initial confusion about the purpose of its notch point. At one point, people thought it was used to shave the philtrum-that indentation between your nose and upper lip. But the real reason was that it allowed the barber to easily open the razor, especially when he would be busy flicking open razors during the course of his day.
Which is best for you is simply a matter of your preference. If you need to level up your skill in straight razor shaving, we’re sure the Spike and Spanish points will challenge you.
But if you are a newbie, then, by all means, go Dutch.
Stylistically speaking, it’s not as forward-looking like the French or Barber points. But in terms of practicality, the Dutch’s round point is more forgiving to sudden changes in angle or direction, so one gets fewer chances of getting major nicks and cuts.
Leave the intricate carving and trimming to the professional barbers. At this stage of your manhood, you need to experience the meditative pleasures that wet shaving can provide. Using a Dutch point blade will easily guarantee you a smooth and clean shave, without the bumps or the cuts.
It’s the perfect shaving razor to start one’s day because its sharp edge and rounded Dutch pointed blade guarantees that the blade smoothly cuts your stubbles without getting you unnecessarily cut by a straight edge.
It’s a luxurious shaving experience, one which will guarantee that once you go Naked Armor, you’ll never look at any other lesser straight razor again.
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